Styles for Gentlemen.
The Delineator, February 1884, page 104
At the close of the season, and immediately preceding the opening of Spring goods, little novelty can be
looked for either in information or illustration, and we have, therefore, confined ourselves to such variations of accepted
styles as have appeared most recently before the public. There are, of course, numberless patterns in all classes of goods
that we can never hope to picture, or even mention; but they are usually the least noteworthy; for it is our endeavor to
illustrate and describe the season’s fashions in furnishing goods, not when they are exhibited by retailers—when they are public
property—, but even before they leave the hands of the manufacturer or importer; and so make the information really worth having.
Quiet elegance was the chief feature of the neckwear worn during the past Winter. Shades in many instances were bright, but they
were tempered by contrast with a more sober hue, and the blending was so happily accomplished that individuality was retained
although the effect was in no way pronounced. The changeable cashmere effect were perhaps the most colorful of the season’s
goods, but they were certainly also among the handsomest, and their large sale attested the appreciation of the people at
large. Polka and pin spots and hair-line stripes were much in vogue, and the chief solid colors were myrtle, dark-cardinal,
seal, indigo, wine, blue and black.
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In shapes, the principal innovation was in dress ties, the fastening at the back with a button and elastic loop, or with a
strap and buckle, being a decided boon, as the front, not being handles, was kept immaculate. The puffed scarf and club knot
were—and still are—prime favorites, though many more ties, made into the sailor’s-knot, are worn now than in the commencement
of the season. De Joinvilles and Windsors are always staple, and though they experience fluctuations in public favor, it
never blows hot and cold upon them, as upon what have been termed the “mushroom” shapes.
The designs on handkerchiefs were a considerable advance on those of the previous season, quaintness and good taste taking the
place of burlesque and senseless exaggeration.
The month’s illustrations represent three silk handkerchiefs, a dress shirt with collar and tie adjusted, and two collars, also with ties.
Figure No. 1.—Gentlemen’s Handkerchief.—This handkerchief is made of white satin, self-brocaded with a design representing palette
and brushes. Such handkerchiefs are principally accompaniments of evening dress, those brocaded in colors being more in vogue
for the breast pockets of overcoats.
Figure No. 2.—Gentlemen’s Handkerchief.—An orange satin ground, sage-green leaves and moss rose-buds are combined in this handkerchief,
and the result is remarkably handsome and effective. As articles suitable fro presents, handkerchiefs of this description are eminently suitable.
Figure No. 3.—Gentlemen’s Silk Handkerchief.—A fawn silk ground, with leaves in Autumn colorings, a realistic daisy, and a stripe of
ecru, is represented in this handkerchief. The design is worked only on the two opposite sides, the others being plain. Birds and
animals are favorite patterns for embroidering silk handkerchiefs, the excellence of the work being determined by the nearness of
the delineation to real life.
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Figure No. 4.—Gentlemen’s Collar and Tie.—A style of collar at present fashionable is here given. It is of medium height, 1 3/4 inch,
and has a slight V-opening in front. The button holes both back and front are worked in pieces of linen that are of less thickness than
the other parts of the collar, and may consequently be manipulated without the loss of temper that frequently occurs after cast-iron
laundering. The tie in this instance is of white satin.
Figure No. 5.—Gentlemen’s Dress Shirt.—A dress shirt that opens in the front, and with a collar and tie of the latest shape, is here
shown. The collar is separate from the shirt, but the cuffs are sewed to the sleeves. The tie is of white lawn. Our pattern No.
7089 can be used for this shirt. It is in sixteen sizes for gentlemen from thirty-two to fifty inches, breast measure, and costs
1s. or 25 cents.
Figure No. 6.—Gentlemen’s Collar and Tie.—In straight, standing collars the maximum height seems to be reached in that pictured at
this figure. It is not so deep in the back as some former styles, but in front it measures 2 1/4 inches, being a veritable
dog-collar. The tie is of black satin.
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The Delineator, November 1884.
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