vintage dress series books
vintage dress series books

OF THE 1890s

Sample Pages from the Book



FIGURE NO. 314 G.—This consists of a Ladies' costume and chemisette. The costume pattern, which is No. 6737 and costs 1s. 8d. or 40 cents, is in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to fourth-six inches, bust measure, and may be observed in three views on page 211 of this DELINEATOR. The chemisette pattern, which is No. 6751 and costs 5d. or 10 cents, is in three sizes, small, medium and large, and is differently portrayed on page 229.
The toilette is very elegant for yachting or for morning calls in the country, and is here portrayed made of white duck, with the chemisette and cuffs of fancy percale. The skirt is in four-gored style and is of convenient length for walking, escaping the ground all round. It is plainly completed and presents a smooth effect at the front and sides and rolling folds at the back.

Ladies' Toilette.

The jacket extends to a becoming depth over the hips, and has dart-fitted fronts that are reversed to the lower edge in tapering lapels by a rolling collar, with which the lapels form notches. Side-gores and a curving center seam effect a smooth adjustment at the sides and back, and below the waist-line the backs and gores spread in graceful umbrella folds. The mutton-leg sleeves are shaped by inside and outside seams and closely follow the outline of the arm below the elbow, while above it they spread and droop prettily, the fullness being collected at the top in box-plaits. The wrist edges and all the other free edges of the jacket are finished with a single row of machine-stitching.
The vest opens very low, and the fronts are snugly fitted by single bust darts and are widened by gores and closed in double- breasted style with button-holes and buttons. The back is shaped by a curving center seam, and straps are included in the under-arm seams at the waist-line and buckled at the center of the back to regulate the width. The notched rolling collar is faced with the material, which is continued down the front edges of the fronts to form underfacings. The free edges of the vest are followed by a single row of machine-stitching.
Above the vest is effectively revealed the chemisette, which has a short cape back, and narrow fronts that are closed at the center with studs. At the neck is a standing collar with pointed ends turned down in Piccadilly style; and a white lawn band-bow is worn. The cuffs may be closed with studs or link buttons.
Equally attractive gowns may be made of hopsacking, marseilles, fancy cheviot, serge, tweed, homespun, camel's-hair, piqué and other cotton or woolen fabrics of similar texture, with Hercules or soutache braid for garniture. The vest will generally contrast widely with the remainder of the costume, fancy flecked vesting, corduroy, basket-weave piqué and linen being especially appropriate; and pearl shank vest buttons will be used for the closing. Plain or striped chambray, percale, linen or lawn will make stylish chemisettes, and any preferred variety of scarf may be worn.
The small hat rests becomingly upon the coiffure and is adorned with velvet ribbon and aigrettes.

The Delineator, March 1894
(Page 7)


This illustrates a ladies' costume. The pattern which is No. 7640 and costs 1s. 8d. or 40 cents, is in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to forty-six inches, bust measure, and may be seen again on page 635 of this Delineator.

Ladies' Spring Costume

This charming costume, which will be appropriate for afternoon receptions and teas and also for church and visiting wear, is here shown made of beige-colored India silk, with point gaze lace in Vandykes and insertion and velvet ribbon for decoration. The round basque-waist is exceedingly trim, being provided with a lining that is accurately fitted and closed at the center of the front. The full front is gathered at the shoulders below a deep, forward-turning plait that extends to the lower edge, and the fullness resulting from the gathers is collected in plaits at the lower edge, the plaits flaring prettily. Over the closing is an applied double box- plait, and between the box-plait and the side-plait at each side the front is decorated with a long Vandyke of point gaze lace. Extending from the shoulder at each side of the stylish back is a deep, backward-turning plait, the plaits meeting below the waist-line and revealing a Vandyke of lace between them above. The standing collar is covered with a softly wrinkled stock. The Gigot sleeves are mounted on coat-shaped linings; a double box-plait is formed at the center between gathers, and the fullness droops to the elbow with the effect of a huge puff, below which the sleeve fits closely. The wrists are completed by an encircling band of lace insertion and a loop-bow of ribbon. Over each shoulder falls a "Trilby" bow of satin ribbon; and a ribbon encircles the waist and terminates at the center of the front in a full bow.
The skirt is circular at the front and sides and has three godets at the back; it is fitted without darts and with perfect smoothness across the front and hips, and at each side a short distance from the belt it falls naturally into handsome ripples owing to its circular shaping, the ripples being held into position by a tape tacked across them underneath. The godets at the back are interlined with hair-cloth, and each is laid in a box-plait at the top and falls to the lower edge in stately folds that are held in position by an elastic strap near the top. The fashionable flare at the bottom of the front and sides is rendered more prominent by a deep underfacing of hair-cloth.
This is one of the most stylish of the season's modes and produces a most charming ensemble. The stately straight lines of the skirt, the bouffant sleeves, and the tasteful disposal of fullness in the waist, together with the effect produced by the addition of lace and ribbon, are certain to increase the attractiveness of a good figure and to conceal the defects of a faulty one. Crépon and silk in the lighter materials and serge, cheviot and solid-hued and two-toned whipcords among the heavier and more durable fabrics are suited to the mode, and mohairs in plain and figured varieties will make serviceable and dressy costumes. Lace and embroidery and ribbon are the most suitable garnitures.
The stylish bonnet is of the Dutch variety and is adorned with ribbon rosettes and a jet aigrette.

Harper´s Bazar, July 27, 1895
(Page 18)


A charming summer gown for a young woman is from the Maison Kriegck of Paris. It has a skirt and waist of crépon of the fashionable Ophelia shade which is pinkish mauve. The sleeves and belt with long sash ends are of taffeta silk in alternate stripes of cream white and Ophelia. The skirt flares very full in large godets, but is quite close-fitting about the hips. The round corsage is fitted into the belt, and has a full vest of cream-white mousseline de soie, the mousseline also forming the draped collar with large rosettes on the sides. Venetian guipure lace in graduated points forms a very effective trimming. The silk sleeves are cut bias, and are pleated just above the elbow.

Ladies' Toilette.

The yellow straw hat is trimmed with large white roses, and their green foliage set amid loops of taffeta ribbon changing from green to mauve. The parasol is of white foulard, and the gloves of white kid.
The pretty frock of the small girl is of Pompadour silk, the ground cream white and the design small roses. The skirt is laid in fan- pleating in front and back, part of the front being in one piece with the waist. The corsage is gathered very full at the low-cut top and again at the waist-line. A large double collar of the silk cut in effective points reaches out on the sleeves and low on the bust. French children wear the throat uncovered, but a guimpe of fine Irish Guipure lace is provided if the gown is to be sent to this country. the sleeves are extremely large and full. A wide sash of white sating ribbon is tied in large projecting loops in the back. This frock is from the Mason Marindaz of Paris.
The capeline is of white leghorn, flaring high in front and trimmed in rose-color. The satin ribbon is pale rose interwoven with white, and the nodding plumes are of similar rose tints.

Harper´s Bazar, July 27, 1895
(Page 24)


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The Delineator, December 1896
(Page 53)

Descriptions of illustrations on page 53.

As the season advances the importance of the fanciful accessories for waists becomes more evident; and when the transforming power of these dainty bits of decoration is considered their extensive vogue ceases to be a matter of surprise. The silk waists still in favor frequently form the back-grounds upon which these adjuncts are displayed. However, it must not be inferred that the less pretentious woollen waists do not furnish as favorable a setting. White satin is still in request for adjuncts of all kinds, but where fluffiness is sought lace or chiffon is used. The accompanying illustrations include accessories both for high and low neck waists.
FIGURE NO. 93Y. - LADIES´ WAIST DECORATION. - A pleasing contrast of tones is effected in this adjunct by the union of white moiré antique and deep-cream lierre lace. A yoke is cut from the moiré and extended at each side in a point to the waist-line, a full portion of lace being inserted between the points. pearl outlining trims all the edges of the yoke. Over the shoulders fall plaited caps of lace, and over the standing collar is tied a stock of moiré ribbon, a spread bow being arranged at the back. A black and white effect might be successfully carried out by the design. The yoke might be cut from and covered with jet-spangled black net, and black Chantilly lace could be used for the sleeves caps and full portion. Either a black or white satin stock could be used. The pattern employed is No. 1068, which is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and costs 5d. or 10 cents.
FIGURE NO. 94Y. - LADIES´ WAIST DECORATION. - Black velvet is the material shown in this ornament, which shapes a deep, square collar at the back between points, falls over the shoulders and extends down the front with the effect of lapels. Mink tail borders the decoration and jet galloon trimming is applied some distance above the fur band. A stock of white taffeta ribbon disposed in a bow at the back accompanies the ornament, which is shaped according to pattern No. 1067, which is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and costs 5d. or 10 cents.
FIGURE NO. 95Y. - LADIES´ WAIST DECORATION. - The effect of a low-necked bodice decoration when worn on a low-cut bodice is illustrated at this figure. The bodice is fashioned from blue-and-gold glacé taffeta and is made full and with elbow puff sleeves. Two rows of black point Venise lace insertion cross the front and a crush girdle of silk is worn. The pattern is No. 1808 and is in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to forty-six inches, bust measure, and cost 1s. or 25 cents. White satin was employed in the development of the decoration, which falls in deep points on the shoulders and in front at each side of an extended portion which decreases in width toward the waist-line, where the end is turned under to produce a drooping effect. The low, round neck is followed by a shell ruche of white chiffon; jet passementerie is applied near the edge and two rosette bows of white ribbon are placed on the extended portion. If liked, colored silk or satin could be used for the Ornament and overspread with cream or black lace. The pattern used is No. 982, which is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and costs 5d. or 10 cents.
FIGURE NO. 96Y. - LADIES´ MARIE ANTOINETTE FICHU. - This dainty creation is fashioned from white chiffon that falls gracefully into the folds for which the shaping is responsible. At the back the fichu describes the blunt point shown in the miniature view, and in front fall two very long points. Two frills of chiffon trim the fichu and add to the fluffy effect desirable in such an accessory. The design is based upon pattern No. 930, which is in one size, and costs 5d. or 10 cents. Dotted Swiss and silk mull are also favorite materials for fichu.
FIGURE NO. 97Y. - LADIES´ LARGE COLLAR. - Glacé green-and-gold taffeta was employed in the making of this collar, which is triple- pointed at the back. It falls deep on the shoulders and produces the effect of notched lapels in front, the ends tapering to points a trifle below the line of the waist. A novelty lace edging introducing gold in its weave adorns the collar. If cut from white satin, it could be edged with jewel trimming or covered with cream Renaissance lace and edged with pearl trimming. Pattern No. 8367, which is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and costs 5d. or 10 cents, was used in the making; it also contains two other collars of slightly different outline.
FIGURE NO. 98Y. - LADIES´ WAIST DECORATION WITH CAPS. - Suspenders are suggested in this decoration. Straps crossing the shoulder and extending both back and front to the waist-line are made of black velvet ribbon and starred with Rhinestone buttons. At the bust and at a corresponding line at the back the straps are extended in the form of cross-pieces, the neck being in consequence square in outline. Narrow cream lace trims the inner edges of the straps and both edges of the cross-pieces. Rosette bows of black taffeta ribbon adorn the ends of the straps. Double caps of wide lace fall over the sleeves. If worn over a low-cut bodice the caps may take the place of sleeves. Instead of using lace for the caps, only the deeper one need be used, in which case it is cut from silk and decorated with many rows of narrow accordion-plaited chiffon. An admirable effect may thus be accomplished. Pattern No. 1092, which is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and costs 5d. or 10 cents.
FIGURE NO. 99Y. - LADIES´ WAIST DECORATION. - A star is suggested by this design, which is carried out in black satin by pattern No. 1174, which is in three sizes, small, medium, and large, and costs 5d. or 10 cents. The ornament is cut low and round at the neck and in many deep points, the outline being emphasized by a full frill of cream Bruges lace, which may be replaced by a chiffon frill whether the ornament is made of satin, moiré or velvet.

The Delineator
December 1896
(Page 54)


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The Direct Supply Co., Spring & Summer 1896
(Page 84)

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