Hairstyles and Headdresses
of the
Civil War Era

In front, this coiffure shows the hair disposed in three rouleaux, terminating in long ringlets. Between those long ringlets, and also behind the ears, are several ringlets of shorter length. The back hair is arranged in a cluster of five loops, to form which the hair is tied firmly at the back of the head, and divided into five portions. The center loop at the back of the neck is very long, and the two at each side of shorter length. The ends of the hair are twisted round the tie at the back of the head, and concealed beneath an ornament of beads suspended from the top of the comb. Amidst the ringlets and rouleaux of the front hair are interspersed small stars and other brilliant ornaments, which, being fixed on elastic pins, are set in motion by every turn of the wearer’s head, thereby producing a most elegant and showy effect. The same kind of pins are employed for fixing the tufts of white feathers, which add much to the grace and dignity of the coiffure. The jewelled agraffe worn in the centre of the forehead should correspond with the other ornaments of the headdress.

Fig 1. - This coiffure is composed of a black velvet coronet standing high in the front, and is trimmed with black velvet leaves veined with gold, and mixed with gold tendrils or spring. To make the coronet, procure twenty-four inches of common chip or straw, one inch wide; sew a thin wire on each side; tack over this a piece of lining, and stretch the velvet tightly over it, stitching it neatly down on the wrong side. The leaves, which may be purchased in sprays, as also the gold tendrils, should then be prettily mounted on the coronet, leaving the latter without any trimming whatever on the sides. Our illustration shows the back of the headdress.

Fig 2. - This headdress may be made of artificial flowers, or pearl flowers and leaves mounted on wire. The coronet is composed of black velvet, with a row of large pearls fastened on the inner edge, the flowers being tastefully arranged high in the centre, and narrowing towards the sides, with a full bunch behind.

Fig 1. - This little headdress is very simple, and very easily made. It is composed of two black lace lappets and six rosettes, the rosettes having in the center of each a small gold star or ornament. Take a piece of wire, twenty- four inches long, bend it in the form shown in the illustration, and fasten a piece of coarse, stiff black net at the back, on which to arrange the bows and rosettes. Take the half of one of the lappets, fasten it on the wire in the middle of the front, and catch it down to the wire at intervals of three and a half inches, making the remainder of the lappet into a bow, with a short end falling on each side. The other lappet is then looped at the back, having two long ends falling in the centre; a large rosette is placed in the middle of the headdress behind, with rosettes of graduated sizes fastened to the wire where the lappets are caught down. The rosette in the middle is small, the two next rather larger, and the two at the sides larger still. For variety, the lace could be ornamented with gold stars, etc.

Fig. 2 Coiffure for evening. A flat wreath of deep red English daisies, with a câche peigné of cherry velvet, suitable for persons having thin hair, and wearing it chiefly in front.

Composed of scarlet velvet twined with gold fringe. A network formed of bands of velvet forms a cáche-peigne for the chignon.

A wreath of white forget-me-nots, with moss-roses, buds, and foliage at the side and back.